Esmerelda Basin

Esmerelda Basin - June 24, 2009

I never get tired of this popular hike so was surprised that my friends, Bob, Arlene and Barbara had never been there. I was more than happy to repeat this time with them. It’s a popular hike and with good reason; dramatic views and wildflowers.

In late June Esmerelda Basin is at its best; the snow almost gone and flowers aplenty. We couldn’t have picked a better time to hike.

This trailhead is shared with the Ingalls Lake trail so get an early start on a weekend. Better yet is to visit mid-week.

The trail climbs for about ¼ of a mile as it parallels the North Fork of the Teanaway River. We crossed several streams; not a problem in late June. In about a ½ mile we came to a junction: the Ingalls Lake Trail forks uphill (right), the Esmerelda Basin trail continues straight.

The trail was bordered by shooting stars, a purple flower found near streams and in meadows where snow has just melted. We passed boggy meadows full of them – delightful to see, difficult to photograph.

From the junction the trail climbs in long switchbacks as it pulls away from the forest. Forest alternates with small meadows and tumbling streams; as we climbed we saw more flowers, including yellow violets. We also saw glacier lilies, Indian paintbrush, Western pasque flower, phlox, lomatiums, spring beauties, yellow wallflower, lupine, lomatiums and more.

At higher elevations we spotted clumps of Douglasia, a delicate appearing but hardy ground-hugging plant that loves this high, dry country. We crossed more streams, one providing an ebullient waterfall that sashayed down a rocky draw.

As we approached Fortune Creek Pass we saw many of the flowers we’d seen at lower elevations but these flowers were smaller. At higher elevations where flowers are exposed to the elements, the plants work much harder to survive and are generally smaller than at lower elevations.

Silver snags stood like sentinels against a darkening sky; bad weather was moving in. A shaft of sunlight singled out Mount Daniel to stand out in bold white, a startling contrast to sullen peaks and clouds. Esmerelda Peaks were dark and forbidding, shunned by the light.

Tika, Arlene’s golden retriever, romped and rolled in the snow before we reluctantly turned around. Mid-way down the rain began to fall and we hurried. We needn’t have; it was only a few scattered drops, not even enough to merit a parka.

Stats: The map is Green Trails No. 209 Mount Stuart. The hike to Fortune Creek Pass is about 7 miles round trip with 1,750 feet of gain.

Getting to the trailhead: From Seattle head east on I-90 and get off at Exit No. 85 then go east (right) onto Highway 970 and in about 7 miles turn left onto Teanaway River Road. Continue about 13 miles to a road junction just past 29 Pines Campground (where pavement ends) and Forest Service Road No. 9737 begins. Drive about 10 miles on Road No. 9737 to the end of the road and trailhead, elevation 4,200 feet. A Northwest Forest Pass is required. Fill out a permit at the trailhead – dogs are allowed on the Esmerelda Basin trail but must be leashed; they are not allowed at Ingalls Lake. Allow about 2.5 hours drive time from Seattle.

Ranger Creek Trail, June 20, 2009

Ranger Creek Trail (South Cascades), June 20, 2009

You have to look a little hard to find the trailhead. From Enumclaw head east on SR 410 and between milepost 54 and the Buck Creek Recreation area, find roadside parking. The trail starts on the left-hand side of the road, the sign a little hard to spot due to foliage. From the highway a short spur leads to a signed junction on the White River trail (No. 1199). From this junction you can head west (left) to Camp Sheppard or head east (right) on the White River trail about 1/8 of a mile to the junction for Ranger Creek.

Turn left, uphill onto the Ranger Creek trail (if you continue straight on the White River trail you could also access the Deep Creek trail but according to the powers-that-be at the White River Ranger Station the trail is badly damaged by storms and is not likely to be cleared any time soon).

The Ranger Creek trail is a quiet, pleasant forested trail shared by mountain bikes but we only saw two pairs of mountain bikers the entire day (no other hikers). As many times as I have hiked here, I have seldom encountered another hiker.

There are several options – for a short hike with a view it’s 2.6 miles to Little Ranger Peak. The spur to Little Ranger Peak is signed, despite a few bullet holes in the sign. From the viewpoint there you can see Suntop Mountain, surrounding foothills but on a cloudy day, not much else. There’s a moss and flower covered outcropping for hikers without vertigo to venture out upon for a closer look – however, this is not recommended. A fall from the rock would likely be fatal and for a smidge of a better view, not worth it.

Back on the trail we opted to continue another two miles to the Ranger Creek shelter. Earlier we’d met a local volunteer with a chainsaw clearing downed trees from the trail - he said the trail was in good condition to the shelter.

As we climbed the dark, mossy forest began a gradual transition to a more-open feel - occasional rock outcroppings can be glimpsed through the trees; a small freshet is crossed two or three times. There are very few flowers along the trail – the forest too dark for much to bloom. Vine maple appears from time to time, it’s bright green foliage adding a little color to the somber hues of evergreens. Just before we reached the shelter we spotted a few marsh marigolds blooming beside a freshet.

The 3-sided shelter is in good condition and was built by the Boy Scouts (a stretch of the Palisades Trail was also built by a Boy Scout troop). The shelter was unoccupied and made an ideal setting for lunch.

From the shelter hikers can continue onto the Ranger Creek trail and connect to the Dalles Ridge trail and even beyond to Noble Knob – that would make a very long day, though and still too much snow at higher elevations.

After lunch our Mountaineer group agreed that warming up with a little bit more uphill sounded appealing. The Ranger Creek trail continues behind the cabin – instead, we opted to check out the Palisades Trail (No. 1198). The Palisades trail is signed and starts from the shelter.

We hiked about a ¾ mile, hoping to reach a high point with views before turnaround time. On our way we encountered a few trees across the trail about ¼ mile from the shelter. We were able to get over and around these; mountain bikers have managed to get around these too.

Past the blowdowns the trail enters more meadow-like surroundings with rocky outcroppings on both sides of the trail. As you begin to see sky through the thinning forest you know views are nigh and you can’t help but pick up momentum on this undulating stretch of the trail.

We stopped at 2-3 viewpoints hoping the clouds would clear; they did not but we enjoyed views of the White River and the airstrip at Buck Creek. We especially enjoyed the colorful wildflowers hugging the edge of the precipice, mostly penstemon.

With a car shuttle hikers and mountain bikers can make a long one-way hike back to SR 410 by continuing on the Palisades trail to a lower trailhead – study the map for particulars. The map is Green Trails No. 238, Greenwater.

Our stats for the day were 11.4 miles (round trip) with 2,700 feet of elevation gain.

Getting to the trailhead: From Seattle head to Enumclaw. From Enumclaw head east on SR 410 and just past milepost 54 park on either side of the highway - if you get to the Buck Creek recreation area you’ve gone a little too far. The trailhead is about 28 miles from Enumclaw.

Ingalls Creek Trail, June 14, 2009

Ingalls Creek (Alpine Lakes Wilderness), June 14, 2009

Twelve of us Mountaineers enjoyed this hike despite the threat of thunderstorms. This hike has a good reputation for wildflowers and the trail did not let us down.

The trail is best described as undulating the first 6 miles to Falls Creek Camp (a good turnaround for a day hike). With ups and downs the trail parallels Ingalls Creek, at times dropping down to the stream to potential campsites and lunch spots. On this sunny Sunday the trail was crowded -- our group added to the “crowd” so I dare not bewail a crowded trail as “we” were part of the problem. Yet the trail is long enough with alluring spurs that even on a busy day, hikers can find a place to be alone to peer at a flower or listen to the chatter of Ingalls Creek.

The flowers: Indian paintbrush (including yellow paintbrush), columbine, thimbleberry, mertensia (bluebells), collomia, balsamroot (almost gone), yarrow, Queens cup, serviceberry, wild rose, pussy-toes, Solomon’s seal, vanilla leaf, larkspur (starting to fade), lupine (lots) and best of all Mountain ladyslipper orchid and lots of mariposa lilies (sometimes called Sego lilies) and honeysuckle.

After thumbing through several field guides I’m still not certain of the “proper” name for this lily so I won’t be offended if an expert corrects me.

In the morning it was hot and humid; “little” uphills felt like “big” uphills. By the time we reached Falls Camp the thunder was booming and rain began to fall. Fortunately it didn’t last long, just long enough to soak the bushes. As the heat returned it felt good to have the wet foliage brush our legs.

About a mile before Falls Camp we noticed that the course of the creek had changed. It looks like last winter – and/or the winter prior was hard on Ingalls Creek. Parts of the creek had moved far away from its original bed and what had once been a creek-bed was a jumble of rocks, roots and a few standing trees.

My memory may not be correct but as I recall the lunch-spot where the Falls Creek trail begins on the other side of Ingalls Creek looked different. Now there is a little beach there rather than the abrupt edge I remember. A large, de-barked log spans the crossing; we could see where the Falls Creek trail began on the other side. It appears to be an extremely risky crossing, especially now as the creek is running high. One slip on the log into the creek would probably be fatal.

It didn’t rain long but it rained hard enough that new puddles had formed on the trail and the muddy sections were a little muddier. Despite the rain, the trail is in great shape at least as far as we hiked.

We hiked 12 miles round trip with 1,450 feet gain according to the GPS.

Getting to the trailhead: From Seattle drive east on I-90 to us 97 (north) and about 12.5 miles north of Blewett Pass turn left on Ingalls Creek Road (signed). Proceed about a mile to the trailhead. Fill out a Wilderness Permit at the trailhead; a Northwest Forest Pass is required. Maps: Green Trails No. 209 Mount Stuart and Green Trails No. 210 Liberty. Allow about 2.5 hours drive-time one-way.

Chiwaukum Creek, July 12, 2009

A Disappointment - Chiwaukum Creek - June 12, 2009

Twice, this trail has not met my expectations.

The first time was early September in 2008, when friends and I hiked there to celebrate the annual Unbirthday hike. I’ve always loved that trail and therefore was disappointed not only in the lack of views, lack of flowers but a crossing of Chiwaukum Creek that was too dicey for most of us, necessitating a turnaround. Since it was a day hike and not a backpack, we wouldn’t have had time to climb into higher country where flowers are at a premium.

I’ve so loved this trail that I included it in “Best Wildflower Hikes, Washington” co-authored with Art Kruckeberg (Professor Emeritus of Botany, University of Washington). Kruckeberg, as always, painted detailed, lovely verbal portraits of flowers you may encounter on this trail. However, timing is everything on this hike.

This year you may find July flowers on June hikes – or vice versa. In June this year we found few flowers, none exceptional other than Tweedy’s lewisia. Even Tweedy’s lewisia was anything but fresh – it was already dried out, past its prime. This, despite a report a mere week ago that hailed this trail as a wildflower hike.

Backpackers who can cross Chiwaukum Creek on a logjam will probably encounter glorious wildflowers at higher elevations. Once safely across the creek (oh, how I miss that bridge!) backpackers or strong hikers can continue to Timothy Meadows or Chiwaukum and Larch Lakes. Even far beyond. Day hikers in search of wildflowers will want to seek elsewhere – this is not the trail for wildflowers.

Years ago the hike started beside Chiwaukum Creek – today the trailhead has been moved further away from the creek. The best part of the lower elevation stretch of the trail is now private property. The trail drops down to the creek only a few times within that first 4-5 miles. It is for the most part, a forest walk.

As for the flowers; there are some. We spotted a few clusters of wasted Tweedy’s lewisia, spent trilliums and a wee bit of Mertensia, such puny blooms it was hard to decide whether they were old or just getting started. We spotted a bit of wild ginger, Solomon’s seal (at its peak), lupine, Indian paintbrush, Western star and fresh bead lily (our favorite), serviceberry, yarrow, luina (past bloom). We were frustrated because we knew the best wildflower displays were beyond our reach.

My partner, Silverback, took a break as I hurried on in hopes of finding more flowers before turnaround (to no avail). Though Silverback downplays it, his quick thinking may have saved my life. On our way out I didn’t hear the warning rattle. The stream was loud and my hearing isn’t what it used to be. He was hiking a couple steps ahead and startled me when he turned around, called my name and suddenly lifted me off the trail. It all happened too fast to coherently recount but apparently he heard the rattle, by the time it registered it was rattlesnake, it had coiled as I approached it (about two feet away from me), so he instinctively grabbed me. Looking over my shoulder he watched the snake uncoil and disappear into the vegetation. The encounter was a little too close for us; be aware and watch, listen for rattlesnakes if you hike/backpack here.

We stopped at the 59 Diner, a favorite eatery of hikers (and everyone else) near Coles Corner. Still frustrated at our lack of photography, we stopped at Skykomish and spent time there photographing the (closed) Skykomish Hotel and other abandoned buildings/homes. We picked up a brochure (a walking tour of Skykomish) and plan to go back when we have more time. It looks like the little town is getting ready to celebrate the 4th of July.

Iron Bear (Iron Creek), Teanaway Ridge

Iron Creek, Bear Creek trail - June 11, 2009

Old-timers still refer to this trail as the Iron Bear trail though it is only in Mary Sutcliff’s out-of-print “Teanaway Country” that refers to this trail by that name. No matter what you want to call it, it’s a fine flower hike in late spring through early summer. By mid-June some of the earlier flowers were withering but others are just getting started. This is usually a lonesome trail, never as crowded as popular trails like Esmeralda Basin or Ingalls Lake deeper in the Teanaway.

It took us a couple hours to drive to the trailhead from Seattle. The Iron Creek road is well signed and in good condition the first 3.5 miles – the last stretch of road could be dicey in spring as you drive through a creek to get to the trailhead. If that is the case, you can find parking a little further down the road. We had no problem getting to the trailhead (mid-June).

The trail starts off leisurely through the forest, crosses a small stream then begins to wind around a rocky hillside before it enters another forested stretch. A couple of minor streams/freshets are also crossed – none a problem. Forest and open areas alternate to Iron Bear Pass – it is about 800 feet gain to the pass. From Iron Bear Pass there are options – the Teanaway Ridge trail begins here – we headed north on the Teanaway Ridge trail (right) the trail continues for several miles, coming out at Stafford Creek Road in the Teanaway. If you head the other direction (left) you’ll eventually get to Red Top lookout. That was too many miles for us – we were content to savor the flowers, stopping our hike at a high point (knoll) overlooking Mount Stuart, Miller Peak and other Teanaway peaks. We might have stayed there forever had we not heard ominous booms in the distance as dark clouds began marching toward us. Time to head down!

Fortunately, the storm veered off and we were soon at the trailhead – we missed the rain. That was good - you never want to get caught in a thunderstorm.

As for flowers – this hike is often described as a “flower hike” and indeed it is. Bring a flower guide if you have one. We saw Indian paintbrush, lupine, death camas, puccoon, waterleaf, false Solomon’s seal, mountain ash, serviceberry, forget-me-nots, larkspur, lomatiums, penstemon, desert parsley, wild onion and several tiny flowers we could not identify. The starring attraction of this hike is bitterroot, just coming into bloom above Iron Bear Pass. The flower was discovered by Meriwether Lewis in the Bitterroot Mountains in Montana.

We hiked about 7-8 miles round trip with roughly 1,800 feet of elevation gain to our high point.

The maps are Green Trails No. 209, Mount Stuart and No. 210 Liberty.

Getting there: From Seattle take I-90 over Snoqualmie Pass, bypass Cle Elum and follow US 97, pass Mineral Springs campground and turn left on Forest Service Road 9714 (Iron Creek Road), continue 3.5 miles to trailhead, elevation 3,800 feet, no facilities. A Northwest Forest Pass is required.

Packwood Lake, June 5, 2009

Packwood Lake (Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Goat Rocks Wilderness)

Was I the only hiker in the Pacific Northwest who had never been to Packwood Lake? It was beginning to feel that way. What was I waiting for? The perceived long drive from Seattle for starters – about 2.5 hrs from Seattle. Plus, it sounded like it would be crowded, with a general store, resort and boat rental.

It is a long drive but it enhanced the experience - it took longer than we planned to get there because we stopped to gawk at waterfalls along State Route 123 between Cayuse Pass and Ohanapecosh.

En route to Cayuse Pass we passed scenes of devastation – where streams blew out last winter, covering the highway with trees, water and mud. Apparently Greenwater was even cut off from Enumclaw for a spell last winter. Today SR 410 is in good shape as is SR 123 between Cayuse Pass and US 12.

Cayuse Pass and Chinook Pass are open; the Sunrise Road remains closed as are stretches of the Stevens Canyon Road. Some loops of the Ohanapecosh Campground are now open for the season.

At Highway 12 we continued to Packwood and found Snyder Road (FS Road No. 1260) well signed, near the abandoned Packwood Ranger Station (the Packwood District trails now fall under jurisdiction of the Cowlitz Ranger District). The 6-mile road to the trailhead is paved and snow-free.

The trail to the lake is mostly through second growth and old-growth forest. We encountered a few blow-downs but nothing a hiker can’t step over or get around. There is very little snow, route-finding not a problem. The forest was quiet, broken only by the soft hooting of a hidden owl and the gurgle of freshets.

Summer flowers are beginning to appear – bear grass and Canadian dogwood still beaded with raindrops from an early morning shower. We also spotted vanilla leaf, flowering current, salmonberry, vine maple, Oregon grape, yellow violets and pinedrops, the tallest saprophyte in our region.

In about 4.5 miles we reached the lake and before we even had a chance to say “Guard Station” we encountered an agile, elderly fisherman who was just packing up from a fishing trip. His first words were “Would you like some bug juice?” We gladly accepted.

Though mosquitoes seldom bite us these mosquitoes were anything but polite. From him we learned there hadn’t been a general store or a resort there since the 1980s; you can’t rent a boat either. The only structures at the lake today are the Guard Station and a historical Ranger Cabin that is under restoration.

The fisherman had ridden his bike to the lake via the Pipeline Trail, an ATV trail (Trail No. 74) and was going back the same way. We asked if could hike the ATV road back to the trailhead to make a loop. Sure, he said - there was only one junction and it was signed.

After we bade our farewells we followed the lakeshore to the historical Ranger Cabin, peeked in, then crossed Lake Creek on a sturdy footbridge. A little beyond is the site where the resort once stood. There is little evidence today that a general store and a resort once stood there. We lingered for a while, enjoying views of Agnes Island on the lake.

Hikers can continue on the trail after crossing Lake Creek to campsites and connections with other trails including Mosquito Lake and Lost Lake.

We re-crossed the bridge and picked up the ATV trail. We looked at the dam before continuing on the trail as it parallels Lake Creek to an unsigned junction. You can take either trail, they meet again - the uphill trail is rocky, the lower trail appeared to be muddy.

Though the fisherman said the ATV trail was not scenic we beg to differ; moss-bordered freshets trickle down from cliffs above the road and there are a few logging artifacts along the way. It is the kind of road that raises questions: what is this object? What was it used for? One stretch of the road has been recently repaired from a washout.

While the ATV road makes a pleasant loop it might not be so pleasant on a busy, summer weekend. The Packwood Lake trail is hiker-only, mountain bikes are not allowed. The trail around the lake is also hiker-only – ATVs are not permitted beyond the end of the road.

Soon, we were back at the trailhead, having hiked 9 miles with 400 feet of gain. We did miss the view of Johnson Peak from the lake; but we’ll likely return.

Just before we left the trailhead we watched an old-timer walking toward the trail with a chainsaw, a pack and a hard-hat. He looked to be in his 70s – when asked, he said “Just clearing a few trees off the trail.” We were impressed!

Getting to the trailhead: From Packwood follow US 12 to Forest Service Road No. 1260 (Snyder Road), continue 6 miles on paved road to trailhead. The map is Green Trails No. 302 Packwood. The loop is about 9 miles with roughly 400 feet of elevation gain.