Summerland, Mount Rainier National Park, August 26, 2012

Summerland (Mount Rainier National Park) Summerland is one of the most popular hikes inside Mount Rainier National Park and suffice it to say you will know why this is a popular destination once you get there. Here are a few reasons of our reasons this hike is a favorite - first off, the views. For starters: views of the Fryingpan Glacier, the Emmons Glacier, Little Tahoma, Mount Rainier and Panhandle Gap. Add to that a herd of 30 (we counted) mountain goats and scads of wildflowers still blooming at Summerland – these are just a few delights you’ll experience on this trail. Get an early start (the trailhead is not large enough to accommodate many vehicles). Also add an extra layer to your pack - it’s getting to be that time of the year when mornings are chilly though it will feel like summer as the day progresses. The trail gets off to a mellow start as it climbs through sheltered forest the first couple of miles before coming to a switchback with a view of Fryingpan Creek where the creek drops through a gorge. A little further are more switchbacks with even better views of the creek. In the morning these switchbacks are usually in the sun and are good places to stop for a drink or a snack before continuing to Summerland. Next you’ll cross a couple of streams and as you approach Fryingpan Creek late-summer wildflowers make their appearance including fireweed, asters, mountain daisies and pearly everlasting. After crossing Fryingpan Creek on a sturdy bridge with a railing the trail meanders through meadows that in late August are a purple haze of asters and fireweed before the trail commences its climb to Summerland on a series of steep switchbacks. There are still enough wildflower displays to stop you in your tracks, especially the closer you get to Summerland. Between pockets of forest the hillsides are covered with wildflowers. Between Fryingpan Creek and Summerland we saw lousewort, lupine, asters, mountain daisies, magenta paintbrush, bistort, valerian and we couldn’t help but notice the swirled leaves of hellebore were already threaded with strands of gold. When you get to Summerland take time to check out the shelter; also an outdoor toilet (signed) is located uphill from the shelter should you need one. Hikers are not allowed to camp inside the shelter but it’s a great place to hang out if you’re backpacking and would prefer to prepare your meal under a roof rather than a dripping tarp. Summerland is far enough for many hikers though strong hikers (or backpackers) can continue on to Panhandle Gap – even beyond. An ice axe or poles will come in handy if you are climbing to Panhandle Gap as there is still snow up there. Mornings are getting cold and that means the potential for hard, steep snow. Though wildflowers are fading between Fryingpan Creek and Summerland from Summerland on up toward Panhandle Gap the wildflowers are still going strong, especially pink and yellow monkeyflowers. If you don’t want to hike as far as Panhandle Gap another option is to continue on the trail until you come to two tarns below the gap (right) that are ideal for a turnaround or a leisurely lunch. Here there are even better views of Panhandle Gap (as of August 27 there was still a cornice at Panhandle Gap) as well as close-up views of wildflowers and the abstract shapes of melting ice in the tarns. The flowers at these higher elevations included Elmera, Tolmie’s saxifrage and Alpine buckwheat. Note that the flowers at these elevations are small and grow close to the ground, their adaptation to inclement weather. At the higher tarn where we stopped to eat we were at first puzzled (then amazed) to spot a herd of mountain goats descending a snow-field toward the tarn just below “our” tarn. They were far enough away that at first we couldn’t figure out what we were seeing but when they got off the snow and onto the dark moraine we could see they were mountain goats. Seeing mountain goats is always a bonus but never have we seen so many. We extended our lunch time just for the pleasure of watching them before they headed back up the mountain. On our way back to Summerland we noted views of the Emmons Glacier that we’d missed hiking up as the glacier was behind us then – the view was almost disquieting, the crevasses so close together that it was hard to tell where one ended and another began. Just above Fryingpan Creek we met a hiker who said a bear had gotten into her backpack when she’d left the trail briefly for a “party separation”. Be extra vigilant when it comes to bears – if you venture off trail for any reason don’t set your pack down, take it with you (if you are camping hang your food). We didn’t see the resident bear but just after crossing Fryingpan Creek we did see blue gentians beside the trail. We call gentians the “goodbye flower” because they herald the end of summer. While we enjoy these poignantly-beautiful flowers we don’t look forward to the end of another summer, especially after this summer got off to such a late start. To get there: From the White River entrance of Mount Rainier National Park (via State Route 410) continue about three miles to the trailhead on the Sunrise Road – the trailhead is on the right-hand side just past the Fryingpan Creek road bridge. No facilities. A pass or a fee is required to enter the park – for details refer call 360-569-2211 (Park Headquarters) or 360-569-6575 (Park Information). Additional Information: The hike to Summerland is 7.25 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 2,100 feet. Map: Green Trails No. 269S, Mount Rainier Wonderland. Add mileage and gain accordingly if you venture beyond Summerland. Karen Sykes

Photos from Covel Falls Trail No. 228, South Cascades

A couple of photos from this recent hike in the South Cascades.

Covel Creek Falls Trail No. 228, South Cascades

COVEL CREEK FALLS (Trail No. 228/228A - Gifford-Pinchot National Forest, South Cascades) Any hiker who has hiked this trail will tell you it’s a spectacular hike but ask someone how to spell Covel Falls you might get different answers. Nobody seems to agree on how to spell “Covel” including land-management agencies. No matter: though the map, trail signs and hiking guides can’t seem to come to an agreement all peevishness will come to an end once you reach the waterfall. For that matter you can even refer to this waterfall as Curtain Falls or Phantom Falls, two other monikers for this 75-foot high waterfall. Covel Creek is one three waterfalls in the Covel Creek drainage (Covel Creek drains into the Cispus River which then drains into the Cowlitz River). Covel Falls is the smallest of the three waterfalls. The other two waterfalls are Angel Falls and Bridal Veil Falls. Covel Creek Falls felt akin to Tunnel Creek Falls in the Columbia Gorge, another hike where the trail goes behind a waterfall. We parked at the Cispus Learning Center in Randle and stopped in at their office to pick up a trail map which caused us some confusion finding the trail – plus, the trail is not as well-signed as it could be as several unmarked paths wind in and out of the grounds. Per the advice of a person in the office we started out on the 0.6-mile Braille Trail (Trail for the Blind), a unique, one-of-a-kind trail that enables those with impaired vision to experience the forest through touch and other senses. The Braille Trail is not only interesting on its own; it is also the easiest place to find the trail to Covel Falls. Hike clockwise on the Braille Trail until you come to the “Forest Loop” sign. Walk up the broad, smooth trail to the left of the sign and continue to Covel Creek which you will cross on a footbridge. Past the creek the trail continues to climb at a moderate grade as the trail parallels the rambunctious creek and skirts several small waterfalls (some of those also seemed worthy of names). After a mile or so you’ll come to a signed junction (1,800 feet) where the Covel Creek Falls (Trail No. 228A) continues (right) and the Burley Mountain (Trail No. 256) goes left and becomes part of the Angel Falls Loop (you can hike the loop in either direction from this junction). We opted for Covel Creek Falls as that makes a scenic turnaround for hikers who don’t have time or energy for the loop. After a short drop the trail goes behind Covel Creek Falls – now you know why many call this waterfall Curtain Falls. Some hikers decry the safety rope that parallels that stretch of the trail behind the falls as it detracts from the splendor of the waterfall but you might as well take advantage of the rope, it was put there for a reason by the Forest Service. Since spray from the waterfall can render the trail muddy and slick it is not a place you’d want to fall. From Covel Falls you can continue on the next stretch of trail which is quite steep to Angel Falls to complete the 4.5-mile loop or hike back to the Cispus Learning Center the way you came. Since we didn’t have time to continue to Angel Falls we hiked back to the junction at 1,800 feet and hiked about a quarter of a mile of the trail (left) toward its junction with the Burley Mountain Trail (No. 256). Geologists as well as photographers will especially enjoy this stretch – it’s exciting and unique with vine maple reaching for the sky and growing wherever it can between tall, bulging cliffs tinted with different colors from lichen. Though the trail is narrow in spots it is not dangerous as long as you watch your step and avoid hiking under the cliffs in winter when there is some danger of falling chunks of ice or rocks. The cliffs have eroded in such a way that caves have formed under the rock where the cliffs overhang the trail. Though we didn’t have time to finish the loop (we had other commitments) we can attest after looking at photographs of Angel Falls that it would be worth your time to do so, especially if you are camping or lodging in/near Randle. If so you should have plenty of time to complete the Angel Falls loop. The Angel Falls loop is 4.5 miles round trip – the high point being Angel Falls at 1,950 feet. Getting there: From Randle on US 12 head south to State Route 131(Forest Service Road No. 25) for about one mile then turn left onto Forest Service Road No. 23. Continue about 10 miles then turn right onto Forest Service Road No. 28. In less than a mile turn right onto Forest Service Road No. 76 to the Cispus Learning Center. For additional information call Gifford Pinchot National Forest (Cowlitz Ranger District Station at 360-497-1100). The map is Green Trails No. 333 (McCoy Peak). Karen Sykes

Edgar Rock

EDGAR ROCK (SOUTH CASCADES) Edgar Rock is a volcanic plug from an ancient volcano that serves as a landmark near the community of Cliffdell on State Route 410. You can also hike to Edgar Rock on a short, scenic trail. The rock was named for John Edgar, an Army Scout killed in the 1850s during the Indian Wars. Edgar Rock was also the site of an 8 by 8-foot fire-lookout cabin put up in 1938 (destroyed in 1978). You can still see where the structure was placed atop the peak as evidenced by four anchors that held the cabin to the rock. Finding the trailhead is more challenging than the hike but worth the effort. The trailhead, is a wide spot on a narrow, forest service road with limited parking – plus, the sign for Lost Creek is almost “lost” in vegetation at the trailhead. If you end up in someone’s back yard you’ve driven too far! Once you find the trailhead, park and head right (uphill) on the trail. The hike starts out on the Lost Creek Trail No. 964 - only the last stretch of the hike is designated as the Edgar Rock Trail No. 964A. The trail starts off climbing through grassy, Ponderosa-pine forest and is in great condition. Near the trailhead look for pinedrops and ghostly Indian Pipe – these parasitic plants lack chlorophyll and depend on a working relationship with other plants to survive (look for them under Ponderosa pines). Also notice the bluebird boxes and heritage trees as the trail gradually climbs out of the forest. Heritage trees are specifically left in place for wildlife habitat. In July the wildflower displays lit up the landscape with vivid color ranging from the shocking blue of larkspur to the subtle pink of Nootka roses. Yellow composites (too many to name) are scattered across the landscape like gold coins – there are many yellow composites and they are hard to tell apart without a field guide. In early July balsamroot had passed its peak bloom but other flowers were just emerging from winters sleep. We saw buckwheat, yarrow, pinedrops, Indian paintbrush, Hooker’s onion, Nootka rose, penstemon, blue bells and a few we couldn’t identify. About a mile up the trail you’ll come across an odd relationship between a tree and two boulders. Here the boulders seemingly hold a tree in place at the edge of the trail – or is it the tree holding the boulders in place? You be the judge. Though this trail is often lonesome you might not have it to yourself. The trail is also open to mountain bikes, motorcycles and stock (closed to ATVs) though we’ve never met anyone else on the trail. According to the Naches District trail guide only the last 1/3 mile of the trail is designated as the Edgar Rock trail (Trail No. 964A). Though the junction isn’t signed the junction is obvious and hard to miss. At the junction, stay right, heading uphill, continue to Edgar Rock and enjoy views of the Nile valley and the American river below. The open country invites further exploration where faint trails beckon. We explored a side trail that led to a rocky area with numerous wildflower displays and a small natural arch. Though at first glance the topography above tree-line may appear desolate, look again, there’s life everywhere – wildflowers spring from crevices in the rocks and the sky is constantly changing, serene and blue one moment, dark and tumultuous the next. Even on a cloudy day humidity can be high – be cautious when the sky darkens and thunder rumbles, especially near Edgar Rock where the trail is exposed as it winds between boulders, weathered snags and outcroppings. Though the hike is short when humidity is high, even a short hike can feel strenuous when it’s muggy outside. Since this is a short hike it’s also good opportunity to visit the nearby Boulder Cave Day-Use Area. The driving directions are the same as for Edgar Rock except that when you reach the forest service road turn right, rather than left (follow signs to Boulder Cave). There is a $5 fee per vehicle to visit Boulder Cave (bring a flashlight). Getting there: From Chinook Pass drive east on SR 410 to River Road (Forest Service Road No. 1706) and turn right to cross Naches River. At Road No. 1704 turn left, continue past private cabins to a fork in the road – take the right fork which says “dead end” and that is Road 311 that leads to the Lost Creek trailhead. Park on the shoulder of road (there are no facilities). Display your Northwest Forest Pass and keep party size small as parking is limited. Map: Green Trails Old Scab Mountain No. 272. For additional information contact the Naches Ranger District (Okanogan-Wenatchee Forest) at 509-653-1401. Karen Sykes

High and Low (A hike and a stroll)

10-25-2011 (Crystal Lakes)

A dash to the still-colorful Crystal Lakes off SR 410 (between Enumclaw/Chinook Pass). Made it just in time for the last of the fall color before winter sets in. The trail was frosty but no snow (yet) to speak of. A little ice at the edge of the lake. We climbed above Upper Crystal Lake to look down on the lake and to the un-named gap as if we were headed toward Sourdough Gap (we could see Sourdough Gap from the "Gap Without A Name") but time was running out and the sun would descend all too soon. This hike makes a good fall hike even with a little snow. Might be OK until mid to late November. Time to carry (or use) traction devices, poles or ice axe if heading above the lakes or hiking to Crystal Peak (you can also hike to Crystal Peak by starting out on the Crystal Lake trail). With two cars you can turn this into a 6-mile one-way hike from Chinook Pass to the Crystal Lakes trailhead or vice versa but Time is off the essence these days. You might want to save the one-way hike until next summer as it takes time to set up a car shuttle.

The stroll was yesterday (10-28) through Lincoln Park, what we call a "desperation hike", simply to get outside and get some fresh air, snap a few fall-color photos before returning to the prison of a very tiny house. It's enough to keep Bob and I both sane as we suffer from SAD (SAD seems to intensify as we age).

Granite Mountain Trail October 2011

GRANITE MOUNTAIN (Alpine Lakes Wilderness)

We have a love/hate relationship with the Granite Mountain Trail. It’s a hard hike for many with significant elevation gain and mileage; the reward for the toil is worth it for hikers who stick to it. Those who have hiked to Granite Mountain and the Granite Mountain lookout on a regular basis get to know each switchback by name (we’ve never counted them) and after several trips over the years we look for the tree that designates the beginning of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Our hike yesterday (10-17) was no exception though the weather was exceptionally good for mid-October. Though it was cool in the shade when we started by the time we were out of the forest and onto the open slopes of Granite Mountain the sun was warm and the fall colors so intense it looked like the mountain was on fire.

The first stretch of the trail – as many trails in the Pacific Northwest – starts out in forest but this is old forest, quiet and deep. When you get to the junction for Pratt Lake/Granite Mountain go straight uphill – you’d turn left if you were heading to Pratt Lake.

Still in the forest the trail continues its intense climb and eventually enters the Alpine Lakes Wilderness (designated by a sign). The foliage thins out a bit and there are a few peeks ahead to blue sky and swatches of fall color.

Views improve every step of the way – this is high country at its finest with views down to I-90 and McClellan Butte resembling a great bird with its wings spread about to soar. The trail continues through the Halloween candy colors of fall – the blueberry shrubs were turning red; some still held bountiful berries. The beargrass that lined the trail earlier in the season has lost it’s white plume of a flower but the ragged, skeletal stalks remain amidst bright pockets of mountain ash, hanging meadows with occasional white snags and then looking very far away – the lookout comes into view.

The climbing relents as the trail approaches two small tarns in a meadow; the fall colors above the tarns were reflected in the water. The tarns are the ideal spot for a break before girding yourself for a still-steep ascent.

From the tarns the trail spurts upward again then winds more gently through large boulders and meadows. The lookout appears again, still looking very far away though it’s closer than it looks.

The trail relents again and is level for a bit before one more steep push through forest to a boulder field; then suddenly you are there. The lookout is closed for the season but there are plenty of places to settle and the views will take what breath remains away.

First we stopped for lunch at the lookout; where it was warm and sunny enough that a chipmunk popped up from the rocks and dashed about hoping for handouts. From there we enjoyed views of Mount Rainier amidst a sea of undulating ridges and Mount Adams further to the south.

Two companions opted to hike the trail back to the tarns; three of us opted for the scramble route on boulders to the tarns where we’d rendezvous. The scramble is not particularly dangerous though good balance and some off-trail hiking experience comes in handy. Later in the year when snow falls, the scramble route over the boulders becomes hazardous as snow fills in crevices between the rocks and it’s all too easy to twist an ankle or worse.

We suggest you hike this trail soon – once significant snow accumulates the trail becomes dangerous in the open areas and avalanches can roar down without warning.
However, with a dusting of snow the hike can still be done and is spectacular then, especially when there is still fall color (watch for ice as temperatures drop).

As always never hike beyond your comfort level and always tell someone where you are hiking and when you are expected to return.

The map is Green Trails No. 207 Snoqualmie Pass.

Kendall Katwalk, October 15, 2011

KENDALL KATWALK (OCTOBER 15, 2011)

What can I say about the Kendall Katwalk that hasn’t been said before? It’s a fairly long hike (12 miles round trip with about 2,700 feet elevation gain via the PCT at Snoqualmie Pass). The scenery is spectacular from beginning to end.

The first stretch is mostly forested but with occasional flashes of colorful vine maple here and there. Devil’s club has turned yellow, its big leaves reminiscent of maple leaves but with treacherous needle-like stickers. It was no surprise there are few flowers now along the trail – in the forest remnants of Canadian dogwood, aged Solomons seal and vanilla leaf. At the Katwalk there were a few harebells and a bit of yarrow.

We always looked forward to that first view of Guye Peak as the PCT leaves the forest to contour below a boulder field. There are also growing views of Red Mountain and Snoqualmie Mountain (Snoqualmie Mountain was dusted with fresh snow that melted away by afternoon).

Shortly past a slightly tricky stream crossing there’s a junction for the Commonwealth Basin trail (it’s signed). The trail to Commonwealth Basin can be used as a shortcut back to the PCT trailhead but stream crossings in the basin can be dicey, especially after recent rain and some snow-melt. The “old” Commonwealth Basin trail is a stretch of the original PCT before the trail was rerouted – it was called the Cascade Crest Trail then.

Past the junction to Commonwealth Basin the trail climbs through dense vegetation - blueberry shrubs, bracken, fading hellebore and mountain ash. After a while the dense vegetation gives way to old-growth forest and another stream crossing, this one easier than the first though at first glance it looks worse than it is.

The next stretch climbs through old-growth forest and you’ll see where trail crews cleared a large blowdown earlier this year. You’ll begin to see bits of sky through the forest canopy and about the time you think the forest will never end the trail breaks out below Kendall Ridge. In October the views are mesmerizing. Colorful fall foliage extends to the base of the ridge (right) and you will unconsciously slow your pace to take in the colorful displays. There are also views of the Snoqualmie peaks.

I’ve only been on the true summit of Kendall Peak once and that was a few years ago. It was the last Mountaineer scramble that the late Paul Wiseman led for the Seattle Mountaineers. The scramble to the true summit is trickier than it looks (at least I thought it was so) and from the trail it is hard to tell which of the high points is the summit.

The PCT its way around Kendall Ridge and here we found a thin layer of snow and occasional ice in the shade; not enough yet to warrant Yak Trax or traction devices but that can change any day now. There was a definite winter chill in the air despite the sun and blue skies.


If you have time notice the boulders beside the trail – they are splashed with lichen in just about every color you can imagine and in places sparkled with a glaze of ice. After some minor ups and downs the trail reaches a viewpoint – this is not the Kendall Katwalk but the views are impressive.

The PCT continues, making a long curve as it contours above a talus slope then comes to the Kendall Katwalk. Just before you get to the Katwalk the trail is narrow and a sign encourages horseback riders to dismount. It’s no place for a fall. Just before you get to the Katwalk peer through a window in the big boulders that border the trail for an interesting frame and view of Red Mountain, Lundine and more.

The Katwalk is snow-free and was the ideal place to stop on this chilly, sunny day. Here we enjoyed views of the Four Brothers, Chikamin Peak and other peaks we weren’t sure we could properly identify. Since we’ve hiked this trail often we didn’t bring the map – that’s a mistake if you want to identify the surrounding peaks.

Since it was a sunny Saturday there were many other hikers on the trail but who can blame them? Most of the hikers we met were younger and probably work full-time – who can begrudge their desire for a golden hike on a Saturday? I used to be one of those weekend-warriors after all. In my 30s, 40s and 50s I mostly worked full-time positions and hiked, scrambled, snowshoed or skied both days of the weekend.

Bob and I dawdled both coming and going – you can blame that on the somewhat futile attempt to immortalize these splendid scenes with our cameras.

Don’t forget your Northwest Forest Pass as we did in our eagerness to get outside on a sunny day. I didn’t realize it was sitting at home until we were half-way to Snoqualmie Pass. We ended up having to use my debit card to purchase a day-hiking permit at one of the grocery stores at the pass. I don’t remember the name of the store but it’s the first one grocery/gas station you come to as you approach Travelers Rest from the west (Exit 52). You will need a permit to park at the trailhead and parking is not allowed near the freeway interchange. You’re likely to get towed if you attempt to park there. Buck up, admit you’re getting old and forgetful and purchase a pass if you need to (to be completely honest …. I often forgot important items in my 30’s too, like the time I forgot my blue foam sleeping pad on a wintry, snowy backpack but that’s another long story…..).

I guess that’s called being human.